Go ahead and use TW-25b, if you want your firearms to fail.
I did my own garage testing of various things people use to lubricate their firearms with. I place a heavy emphasis on two fundamental criteria, 1] stopping or limiting rust, and 2] lubrication for proper function of firearm and to minimize wear for longevity.
Corrosion Control:
I did my own do-it-yourself garage rust test. I tested a variety of products that people use on their firearms. From CLP to WD-40, Rem-Oil, Militec, Mobil 1 engine oil, to TW-25b and many others. Stopping rust is critical. It is a huge part of keeping a firearm working and keeping it around for decades. Even with today's high-tech finishes and polymers, it is critical to prevent rust. I tested all these products on metal using a salt spray over the course of a few days. Out of all these products, only CLP prevented the rust. TW-25b was 2nd, but it was a far 2nd. On a scale of 1 to 10, CLP was a 9, TW-25b a 5, and everything after went down from there. I would NOT use TW-25b for any rust-prevention purpose.
Lubrication:
Here's the horror story. I've used this product on an HK USP pistol for a year. I never really had any issues with it. It did minimize wear, but not more so than any other product. However, I always clean my firearms after each range session, regardless of how filthy or clean they may be. I'd re-apply it, and then store my HK in my house. I'd shoot this particular firearm once every month or so.
I gave a tube of this stuff to a family member to try out. He cleaned his 1911, and applied the TW-25b the same way I apply it to my HK. He then put the 1911 in a quality lined zippered gun case and stored it his trunk. We live in the Southeast. It gets very hot, and very humid. Trunks can reach 140 degrees. After a month, he had taken out his 1911 to check the feeding of some new handloads. When he tried to rack the slide, it was gummed up beyond belief.
The TW-25b had dried up and somewhat hardened. It became (no exaggeration here whatsoever) almost exactly the same as nasty old caulking. Barely pliable, with a rubbery-like feel, but immovable from where it contacts. It reminded me a lot of the old dried up thermal paste you often see when removing a CPU from an old motherboard.
I was shocked; I never had such a problem with TW-25b. I knew it wasn't good rust prevention, but it worked as a lubricant for me, although, I never subjected it to any heat or humidity. It took a couple of hours of wire-brushing to get the TW-25b out of his 1911.
Now, a lot of you might be saying "don't keep a firearm in trunk", or "check and clean your firearms more often." Well, you know what? I don't care what excuses anyone might make for this stuff, I believe any lubricant worth a damn should be able to withstand the heat and humidity of a trunk, at least for a month. Any lubricant worth a damn shouldn't change state from a liquid to a solid. I'm sorry, but keeping a clean gun in a hot, humid trunk shouldn't be enough of a "torture test" to warrant turning a lubricant into a caulk-like disaster. Especially not a lubricant that sells for $9 (or more) per tube and is advertised as being "high tech", the choice of professionals, used by the military and whatever other marketing bullshit they can come up with. To these bogus claims I say "yeah right!" TW-25b is the market's way of making lubricant "tactical."
I'll stick with CLP thank you.
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